شڪارپور جون ياديون

فيبروري 14, 2007 at 12:40 am | Posted in Autobiographical, Sindh | 11 رايا

 

هڪَ نظرَ هيڏانهن ـــ هن بِلاگَ ۾ ڪتب آندل ڪِن نئونِ ۽ پُراڻنِ لفظن جي معنا ڏسڻ لاءِ هت ڪلڪ ڪندا .

ٻين لفظن جي معنا لاءِ، يا ٻي ڪنهن سڌاري لاءِ ڪامينٽ ڇڏيندا ته ٿورائتو ٿيندمِ.

 

 

اڄ هتي شمپينَ جي شهر ۾ برف پئي ڪري. تَپِشِ ماپَ برف ڄمائيندڙ ٻُڙي کان 20 سَنوَينڀاڱي درجَا (سينٽي گريڊ) ڪريلِ آهي. مٿان توفاني هوا ۾ هڪَ فُٽَ کان مٿي ڪِريل برف پئي هيڏاهن هوڏانهن اڏامي. اڇي برف جي اُڏام شڪارپورَ جي لوُههَ ۾ اُڏامندڙ واري ياد ڏياري پئي توڙي لوهه اُڏرندي پنجاهَ سَنوَينڀاڱي درجَن جي گرمي اِهڙي هوندي آهي ڄڻ باههِ پئي ٻري. (مٿيون فوٽون گھر جي پويان گاههَ ۽ ڍنڍَ جو آهي، ٻنهي تي برف ڄميلَ).

جڏهن منهجي مائٽن ڪراچيءَ کان شڪارپورَ لاڏاڻو ڪيو، منهنجيِ عُمرِ اٽڪلَ ست ورهيه هوُنديِ. منهنجي بابا کي ڪراچيءَ ۾ ڏاڍي آنڌِ مانڌِ ٿيندي هُئِي. شهرُ نهشڪارپورَ جو ڍڪ بازار رڳو ڌاريو پرَ نِر آتما لڳندو هوسِ. ٻيءَ طرف اَمڙَ کي سودائو ٻارن جي تعليم جو رهندو هيو. اِنهن ٻنهي ويچارن جو ٽڪرُ سدائين رهيو ۽ امڙِ ۽ بابا وچ وِنجوڳه جو ڪارڻ به بڻيو . پَرَ هَجوَ آميز سَتيتا (حقيقتَ) اِها آهي ته جيڪا پِروُڙَ مانکي شِڪارپور رهڻ سان مِلي تنهن عُمِرَ لاءِ منهنجي سمجهه ڦيرائي ڇڏي. اِها پِروُڙَ ڪنهن سِڪوُلَ وڃڻ ڪري ڪانه مِليَمِ پر انهيءَ جو ڪارڻ نه رڳو سڄي ماحول جي ڦيرَ هُئِي پَرَ شهر جي ويراني هوندي به منجھسِ بابا واتان ڪنهن گذريل زماني جون ياديون ٻڌندي ڪنهن ٻيءَ دنيا جو کاڪو اکين اڳيان پڌرو ٿيو. امان پاڻ پڻ گھڻائي وار چوندي هُئيِ ته چڱو ٿيو شڪارپوُرَ ۾ اچي رهياسي ـ

اِهو شڪارپور رهندي ئي ٿيو جو مان سنڌي لکڻ پڙهڻ، توڙي ڳالهائڻ سِکي؛ جنهن ڪمَ لاءِ سائين ماستُر قلندر بخشُ وڏا ڪَرميِ هُئامِ. نه رڳو مان کي سنڌي سکارڻ لاءِ گھڻي محنت ڪيائون پر ايتري چاهَه سان جو پائيِ سِکڻي به وٺڻ کان سفا اِنڪار ڪيائوُن. روز سائيڪِلَ تي اچي ٻه ٻه ڪلاڪ سبقُ پاڙهيندا هيا ۽ ٻه ٽي ڪَلاڪَ ڪمُ ڪرڻ لائي ڏيئي ويندا هيا. سنڌي پهرين جمات کنئون ڇهين جا سبق ڪن مهنن ۾ پورا ڪريائون.

خيرُ ، ڪاٿي ڪراچي ۽ اُتان جي پنهاگيرن وارو سماج، ڪاٿي شِڪارپور جي رنگا رنگي، ماڻهن جي مٺاڻ ۽ نماڻائي. اسان جي اڱڻَ تي هفتورا جمي رات چونڪيون جن ۾ پرهَ ڦٽي ڪُڪڙَ جي ٻانگَ تائين ڄاگرتا، سنڌوُءَ واههَ جي ڪپَ تي راڳَ جون محفِلون ۽ گھاٽ تي ٿڌي هيِرَ. سانجهيِِءَ جو بابا جي اوطاق تي اديبن ۽ شائرن جي ڪچهري لڳندي هئي جنهن ۾، ٻين جا ته نالا وِسري ويا اٿمِ پرَ اڃا يادِ ٿمِ ته صوفيِ جھامنداسِ ۽ لُطفُلا بدوي ڪَئَتائتو ايندا هيا ـ

سچُ چئيجي ته اهو سڀ هوندي به مان تي پڻِ پيا ڪي ٻه ٻيا وڏا اثر، هڪُ ته هڪڙي هاري ِ چاڪرَ جي ڳالهين ۽ انداز جا ۽ ٻيو ڪُڪڙِين، ڪَازن، طوطن، ڪانگنِ، ڪُتنِ ۽ ڏاندن سان منهنجي رُڻ ِجُھڻِ جا. اِنهن ۽ ٻين گھڻيئي ڳالهيُنِ بابت ڪنهن ٻي ڀيري حياتي هوُندي ته اول خيرُ لکبو ـ

شڪارپورَ ۾ اسان جو گھر شهرَ کان ٻاهرِ سَکرَ روڊَ جي ڀَرَ هيو (جنهن روڊ کي شڪارپوري ڪاليج روڊُ ڪري ڪوٺيندا هيا). جڏهن صدر بازار پاسي مان ريلَ ڦاٽڪَ پار ڪيون چيلا سِنگهه ۽ سيتلداسِ شڪارپور ڪاليج ڏانهن وڃبو هو ته واٽ تي کاٻي پاسي هڪ ننڍڙو رستو C&S College Shikarpurاسان جي گھر ڏانهن ويندو هو. اِيهو رستو ڪچو هوندو هو ۽ ڪي سَوَ ميِٽرَ (والَ ) لامَ هوندسِ. جڏهن 1982 ۾ شڪارپور ويُمِ ته ڏٺُمِ ته هن ننڍي رستي تي گھرڻيئي سرڪاري ”فِليٽَ“ ٺاهيا ويا آهن ته ڄڻ رستو گھٽي ٺهي ويو آهي ۽ گھرَ ڪنهن ڪوئٽا جي واپاري گدام ُبڻائي ڇڏيو آهي ـ (فوٽو ڪاليجَ جو هڪُ منظر ؛؛

گھرَ سان هِڪ اَڌ ايڪڙَ باغ هيو ۽ کوُهه تي ڏاند هلائي باغ کي پاڻي پڄائبو هو. (اهو باغ پڻِ 1982 ۾ ويرانُ ڏٺمِ). باغ ۾ ٻه زيتوُنن جا وڻَ ۽ هڪُ اَڌُ انب جو وڻ هيو. شهتوُتَ جو هڪ وڻ پڻ هيو. ڄموُئَنَ جا ٻه وڏا وڻ هيا، ۽ ڪيئي کجين ۽ ڏوڪَنِ جا وڻ هئا. اِهي ڄمون اڃا ياد اٿمِ .. ڄموُئن ۽ ڏونڪنِ جو سوچينديئي واتَ ۾ اُنهن جو بنڌيج ڏيندڙُ ڪسارو چَشڪو محسوسُ ٿيمِ.. پرَ هاڻِ اهي ميوا کائِڻَ ڀاڳن ۾ نه رهيامِ. الو ميان! انهيءَ باغ جون مِٺيون تازيون ترڪاريون ! ڇا ڳالهه ڪيان

هاڻ اِهو بلاگ پڻ پورو ڪرڻ جو وقت اچي ويو جيتوڻڪ ڳالهيون ڪونه کٽيون. لکڻ ۾ ڪيئي رنڊڪوُ ن پونِ جو وقت جي تنگي سدائين (کجين جي وڻ جو فوٽون ڪجرستن جو ڪڍيل فلڪر.ڪام تان)رهيم. اڄُ ڪجهه وقت ڪڍيمِ جو هتِ شمپين ۾ برفَ ڏيڍُ فُٽَ پئي ۽ ڪِن هندنِ تي هوا ٽنِ چئن فٽن جا برفي ديرا ٺاهي ڇڏيا. هونئن ٻه چار انچَ (سمجھو ڏهه کن سَوَينڀاڱي مِيٽَرَ) سياري ۾ پنج اٺ ڀيرا پوندي آهي. هيل ايڏي ته پئي آهي جو ٽيهنِ ورهين ۾ پهريون وار آهي جو يونيورسٽيءَ ڪنهن به سبب ڪري هڪَ ڏينهن لاءِ بند ڪئي وئي! پَرَ ڪم ڪاريون ڪي کُٽڻيون ناهنِ ـ

مثال ته منهنجي گھر جي طبيلي کان روڊَ تائين رستو ڪو ويهه ٽيهه ميٽرَ هوندو. گھڻوتر هتي سُڪل برفَ اهڙي پوي جنهن ۾ موٽرِ جا ڦيتا اينئن ڦاسن جينئن واريءَ ۾. سو ٻاهر نڪرڻ لاءِ اهو خانگي رستو پاڻ صفا ڪرڻو پوي. ڪي انهيءَ ڪمَ جو ٺيڪو ڏيندا آهن، ڪي مشن هلائيندا آهن . پر اسان پاڻ پنهنجي هٿن سان بيلچو هنيون صفا ڪندا آهيون ته ٿوڙي تازي هوا به کانئون ۽ ڪا بودي کي ورزش به ٿئي. اڄ انهيءَ ڪمَ منهنجا ۽ منهنجي زالَ جا ڪيئي ڪلاڪ مَزوري ۾ لڳايا هوندا ــ توڙي اڄ يونيورسٽي بند هُئي ۽ ڪلاس ڪانه پاڙهڻي هُيمِ تنهن هوندي به پروفيسري جو ڪم پيو هلي ـــ هاڻ ڪي پنهنجي نگراني هيٺ پي ايچ ڊي ڪندڙ وديارٿيءَ جو ڦولهاري پرچو ٻيهر پڙهي انهيءَ جي لِکت صحيح ڪرڻي اٿمِ جو سڀاڻي تائين اِهو ڪمپيوٽرن جي هڪ ڦولهاري ڪانفرنس ۾ پيشُ ڪرڻ جي تجويزَ لاءِ موڪلڻِ درڪار آهي جينئين ٻيا ڪمپيوٽرَ وگياني جيڪي انهيءَ ڪانفرنس جي موضوع پڻِ ماهِرَ آهِن نظر ثاني ڪيو ڪانفرنس ۾ وجھڻ نه وجھڻ جو فيصلو ڪري سگھن

چڱو وري ملنداسين

 

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11 رايا »

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  1. saain Agha Saahib chaa chavan. salaam aahay saain qalandar Bux khay janhin tawahan khay ahrri sindhi parraahi jo ajj aamrikaa men hetraa saal rahi be tawanhaan kaan wisaari aahay. Allah tawhnaan jay wadrran khay be hameshah kush rakhay jin sindhi jee ahmiyat mahsoos karay tawaanh khay karachi maan shikaarpur aando. sach budhayaan ta asaan(aaun)ahrri adabi sindhi galahay kon thaa saghoon. Saain sindhi zibaan ji jetree be khidmat kajay uhaa ghat aahay. Hikrro ariz aahay ta kujh dukhyan akharan ji maanaa zarror shaamil karyo ta mahirbaani theendi.(eg. Vinjo Gah, Nir Aatma,Bandheej deendarr,…. etc.. etc).
    Twhaan Shikaarpor jay mash-hoor Khataan (aachaar), Rose-cola, Akhrotan jo halvo, etc jo zikir na kayo aahay, jeko umeed ta bee kista men nazar eendo.
    (Saain Chukoon Ghaltyoon Maaf)

    Changoon Saain Berra paar.
    Nazeer Ansari

  2. Saeen Agha Sahab!

    Zabardast..~

    Your blog is realLy interesting and very much informative.

    i’m also from shikarpur, par pahinjo shikarpur hanay uho na rahyo aahay… 😦

    hanay ta shikarpur ji halat dissi kaafi afsos theendo aahay and yaqeen na eendo aahay ta shikarpur jo maazi (past) etro shaandaar huyo!

    anyways..

    keep updating your blog!

    i realLy like your bloGs!

    Khuda Hafiz 🙂

  3. سائين اوهان جي بلاگ جو ته ڪو جوابُ ئي ناهي. شمپين ۽ شڪارپور جون ڳالهيون ڄڻ ته ٿڌيون ۽ گرم هوائون.. سوين ڀانڱين يا سوين ونڊيل، ڳالهه ته ساڳئي ٿي لڳي! اوهان کي عرضڙو آهي ته مهرباني ڪري بلاگ تي لکندا رهيندا ته جيئينءَ اُميدَ جا ڪِرڻا باقي رهن. سَچُ پڇو ته اوهان جون ڳالهيون ڏاڍيون وڻنديون آهن

    • مهرباني ڪري سنڏي بلاگُ وري لکندا. نئون بلاگُ ڏسندي گهڻو عرصيو ٿي ويو. وري ٿڏيون برفاني ڳالهيون، وري سائنسي، بهارن ۽ هاڻوڪي ڦولها جون ڳالهيون

  4. Dear Agha Sahib,
    Haq Maujood !

    Hope this finds you in the best of your circumstances.I also belong to Shikarpur and I live at Awal shah padher wagno gate.saeen please keep on writing your memoirs about shikarpur.Recently KTN News channel (I dont know if It is telecasted in USA) telecasted an superb programme in “The Reporter” about shikarpur.

    Farooq soomro

  5. Sain agha Sahib khushi ta wadh khan wadh aahe ta sindhi america men wehi sindh saan gandhyal aahin per anjaan wadheek khushi tadenh theendi jadenh awhaan shikarpur khe panhji ssagi khoobsoorty wapis dyaran lae ka koshish kanda ada shikarpur jenh awhaan taleem dai sanware un manzil te pahchayo ta hane awhan hun jo karz in soorat men chukayo ta hute tabah taleem ji bahali, culture ji hifazat& qadeem maag mehfooz banaen men kirdar ada kare sagho thaa uho kenh bhi soorat men thee saghe tho ( hakim sanjrani reporter daily hilal pakistan shikarpur )

  6. could actually feel that time, very nicely written, i guess i got the glimpse of that house from outside where you lived, when Agha Abdul Nabi was collector. going to have make a visit soon inshallah and take some photos for you.

  7. Al Jazeera reported that hundreds of children died in Pakistan as a result of a measles outbreak. According to the World Health Organization, the disease killed 306 children last year, up from just 64 in 2011. The WHO did not give a reason until Saturday 13th April 2013, and neither did provincial health official in Sindh or Ombudsman at Federal Secretariat level. However a provincial health official in Sindh said that the disease had hit especially those areas where poor families did not vaccinate their children. Also many Pakistanis, especially in rural areas, view vaccination campaigns with suspicion as a western plot to sterilize Muslims.

    In ancient times, Bhajan (the holy song from Hindu belief), used to be sung as cure, in front of children affected with Measles, and it did wonders. My own relative, Ghulam Nabi with poetic title “Agha Sufi” although a Muslim, brother to my grandmother (my father’s mother) used to sing Bhajan, ” Thaar maata Thaar”( cool it mom cool it treat it mom treat it, heal your children mother goddess) on a harmonium; as treatment for Measles affected children. He was a renowned homeopath of his times, and wrote and sang mystic poetry, in late 20th century in north Sindh and latter his sister (my grandmother) practiced his remedies and treated hundreds of men and women for free; with herbal prescriptions. She was famous miles and miles in the outskirts of our native village Sultankot. Back then we all lived in a big house together. A rhythmic; sometimes regularly irregular or irregularly regular bang of mortar and pestle echoed the house most of the day. Except for surgery and tooth extraction, remedy for everything was available with her; provided if it wasn’t your death call. In an open kitchen, left half of which was walled with an alternately missed bricks layered with mud plaster leaving cross shape hollows at equal distance from roof to floor. Cooking was done on wood fire and only half of the kitchen was walled in front with such designed hollows sufficient enough to facilitate smoke exhaust, to avoid burning and itching of the eyes while cooking. Our kitchen was the busiest place in the house besides house open yard which spread in hundreds of meters all around, that often was full of ladies and children of all age groups, who came along their mommies and would be playing until their mothers were done with getting an extract if it was prescribed and to be made right in front of granny. As many women were illiterate hence granny used to make sure they mixed the right dose and prepare the mixtures and extracts right in front of her. She was very caring and concerned for all. May Allah bless her soul

    A metal vessel filled with water containing variety of mixed herbs stood most of the day on mud plastered semicircular brick collar being heated at controlled flame burning from wood sticks spreading out from the open end of the muddy collar handmade stove. Lower half of the vertical vessel had metal pipe pointing downwards to bow on the mouth of a metal funnel covered with thin piece of white cloth to filter the extract. The cylindrical end of the funnel lowered half way down the throat of variety of glass bottles collection which she kept for these women, so that they do not have to run around. Many of the collection, were empty bottles of whiskey, my dad drank. Drop by drop sequestered through the funnel, the golden extract in the bottle, most of the day. Her maid called Sadori was hypnotized rather, watching those drops one after the other, which slowly filled the bottle; until it was ready to be removed by her and another one placed. Bottles full of these herbal extracts were labeled and used to be arranged on wooden shelves, in her living room, which was furnished with three wooden charpoy woven with yarn from jute. A Russian company Belarus made heavy Fridge white in color stood in South Western corner. In hot summer days, her maids use to ask her for ice cubes and she made sure that she kept steel bowls full of water in the freezer area before starting her day after fajar(Muslim prayer at dawn). There were two wall fixed single door wardrobes with Belgium made mirrors framed in its door, with a German make old fashioned locks that had keyhole to see through. Both wardrobes were fixed on either side of the centrally fixed 8 feet tall door made of Teak wood that lead to her bedroom. The wardrobe on the left side was never locked, and it had number of hats kept on top shelf, a cowboy hat in gray color for partridge hunting, a maroon Turkish hat with a thread tassel hanging at its side, a rusty Pashtun Kula that fixes on head for a turban to be tied around. On the inside of the wardrobe’s door hung couple of sticks and an umbrella. From the very high roof of the living room, hung a fan with long metal rod, top end of which tied with metal bracket in the center of the central girder of the roof plain, with huge body of fan holed in circles all around the rim of its main motor body, at the lower end of the rod. At a distance of about 4 feet on each side of the fan rod, hung two long rods about couple of feet lower than the fan level which held long rectangular wooden plank of timber; polished with chocolate brown, “The Jhali”. In the center at the lower edge of the plank was a fixed metal ring to which a rope was tied that often hanged touching the charpoy. And also from its lower edge all along its length hanged, a piece of, hard, hand woven cloth. At times when the electric power shut down in summer, unlike today’s routine power shedding, we used to pull that plank from its rope to and fro to fan ourselves. That handmade mechanical fan in Sindhi is called Jhali. Most of Pakistan back then was not yet invaded by the fuel run power generators. I also remember we often sneaked under her old fashioned bed to steal homemade onion pickle stored in large China clay vessel, which she often made herself and kept there secretly away from everyone’s sight. And we usually went on this mission late in the afternoon when she was fast asleep and her snores echoed to the full volume, a loud struggled inhale through nostrils followed by a loud hiss to exhale lifting her up lip, sounding like steam engine about to be shunting at Shikarpur Railway Station. She also had one pet dog with rusty fur called Kakar. And about dozen chickens running about and excavating with their beaks, between edges of adjacent floor bricks. Even them; and the dog were often either treated or given herbal tonics, and she made sure they were healthy. We had five buffalos and about 300 goats in our barn situated 1000 meters north of the house. Two medium sized buckets full of milk would arrive both in the morning and evening, and after keeping the milk for daily house use for family and servants and off course her dog, the rest was divided in two halves one for butter to be made ;melted latter to be used as fat for cooking and other half distributed every evening among poor, which she enjoyed while sitting on 4’x4′ divan. Her cook used to puff from Hookah pipe, and I loved the sound of water bubbling at the bottom part of hookah pipe and even sometimes sneaked to take a puff, and warned her cook not complain about this to granny. Whenever she missed Agha Sufi; her brother, she would be singing same Bhajan while she sometimes banged the tough nutty herbs between mortar and pestle. I remember as a child I heard Agha Sufi’s Bhajan many a times when played on All India Radio. But since the advent of FM frequency, we do not any more get to hear the old Sindhi songs which were played on All India Radio. Ghulam Nabi, by cast Durrani Pashtun had poetic title Agha Sufi and he believed in Sufi sect of Islam (love for all), unlike today’s hardliners who blow themselves up. His Harmonium is still with the family, and gramophone (record player). He was the first of Sindhi speaking pathans of Sindh to use surname Agha which latter generalized to be used by now almost 90% Sindhi speaking Pathan all over Sindh. His Otaak( place for men to sit) was called Society building in the Store Ganj area shikarpur, where most of his friends and lovers of the mysticism gathered in the evening, where they shared poetry and often sang folk songs and discussed Sufism. He only had one child, a daughter called Mumtaz bibi, who sadly died of stroke few years ago, and we laid her to rest in their ancestral grave yard beside Agha Sufi’s grave, in Kili Nawab Khan, Shikarpur Sindh. I still remember, she often sang while working in the kitchen a song from his poetry,”Halvay ji Hiryani kha oh munhija jani”. (Eat sweet dessert oh my darling)

    Whenever a child contracted measles, three days post recovery of all of his/her symptoms; it was customary that, he/she was supposed to be shocked with sudden pouring of bucket full of water. And that would ignite wave of water splashing war between all house members, a real fun day. Everyone waiting for a chance like leopard for its prey to throw a bucket of water on each other until each member in the house was drenched in water by each member. Then it was customary for everyone to have a proper bath and wear, if available new clothes or clothes kept for special occasions. Zerda (rice cooked with melted sugar and stained with golden yellow food additive) was cooked and plates full sent to most of the houses in the neighborhood. I don’t know if anyone anymore still practices those traditions. Last time I remember we did that when my nephew Haris, Agha Sufi’s great great-grandson recovered from his Measles.

    Life was really simple, full of love, respect for elders and respect for knowledge, and had values in those days and now it’s all ruined by materialism, and right or wrong race for personal gains and greed; with one slogan only, ” it’s my life, accept the way I am, if you have a problem with me you got to change yourself and not me, no compromises accepted”.

  8. Reblogged this on drkhaninamagha.

  9. Sain Agha Sahab.

    Anja vadek Shikarpur sa piyar thi vayo! Monkhe khabar n hui t muhinji Shikarpur m barif b vasandi hoi. Shal Dahi behar mehar kari, ameen.
    Kidest regards,
    Noorullah Soomro.

  10. بهترين


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